Building the CB case seemed to take a long time. I went very slowly to insure I didn’t make a mistake. It was weighing heavily on my mind and I’m glad I got through it. As you know, I was using a different construction technic, so I wanted to make sure I got everything right. It went together beautifully.Here I laid out my screw patterns and dry screwed everything together. I used an impact driver which offered a lot of control when screwing into the plywood.These screw are a joy to use, they drill their own holes and pull hard enough to go right through the plywood if your not careful. I’ve never used anything like them.Here are the specs for the screws. They are not stainless steel, but they will all get epoxy plugged and shouldn’t see much moisture (since they are buried inside the wood). They are designed for outdoor decking.The process is to dry screw everything together in it’s proper layout, disassemble, epoxy and reassemble. This allows the screws to go back into their original holes insuring proper alignment. This system, though slow, offers a lot of accuracy and precision. Summary:
- Though it had me worried, the build was straight forward and relatively easy on the bench.
- If you take your time and build the case accurately on the bench, it should fit beautifully between the bulkheads.
- Glue up was simplified by working on the bench.
- The case doubler plate was easy to epoxy by working on the bench.
- Everything is easier on the bench.
Well, it’s time to “get the troopers on the flats” and assemble the jig. The first order of business was to build the legs. I’m 6′ tall and decided on 16 1/2″ leg length. The plans suggest 2×6 stock, I elected to use 2×4 stock I had on hand.I then dry fit the pieces to get a sense of how the jig comes together. The bottom 3/4″ plywood piece was mismarked (it read Stbd on the Port side). After staring at it for 30 minutes, I decided to carry on and keep building. All other pieces went together just fine.In addition to these pieces, you will need several 2×4 for cleating. I ripped the stock into halves, which made nice size cleats. Use a straight edge for alignment when you screw in the supportive gusset. This gusset proved to be too large and got in the way of the cleating. It had to be replaced with a wider/narrower gusset. Garage floors aren’t level. Mine is designed to drain all water toward the overhead doors. Hence, It took me a great deal of time to get everything level and true. The diagonals were right on at 128 1/2″.
Redwood shims proved very helpful in getting everything level.Some legs took a lot of shimming, while others took little or none at all.
What I learned:
- This is a three (3) Mountain Dew step. It took an entire Saturday to complete, but be patient. Sage advise from others is to not rush this critical alignment step.
- The instructions for building the jig are definitely lacking some content. My advise is to build the box on a large bench, as if you were building a casket. This will help you keep everything level and square. Then, move the box to the legs and shim up all the legs to achieve levelness.
- The cleating around the inside edges of the jig take up space, so cut your gussets small enough to allow for the surrounding cleating. Otherwise, you’ll be removing it and cutting it again (yup…all three gussets needed to be recut/reshaped/reinstalled).
Afterwards, I went for a nice cool down bicycle ride with my 3 sons. Life is good!
There is a ton of dry storage on the Scamp, probably more than needed. Many will be tempted to take the kitchen sink. But, I don’t want to overload this little boat, I want to keep it light. I also don’t want to fuss with hatch fasteners to simple throw in a Subway sandwich or access a water bottle, so I’ve decided to open up the storage areas between BH7 & BH8, making this area essentially, wet storage. First, I epoxied a filler plate into the access hole in BH7.After scraping and sanding, it looked like this.After two coats of epoxy, it looked like this. Also notice the small filler piece near the bottom the bulkhead to keep water out. This also needed to be filled. I will now cut an access hole in the top of the seat between BH7 & BH8 for quick stash items. I will also cut out drainage holes near the bottom of the seat longitudinal pieces for proper drainage into the scuppers.Otherwise, still sanding and epoxying.