Additional Cleating

There is a fair amount of cleating that needs to be installed before moving forward. These all need two coats of epoxy and sanding prior to installation.  There seems to be a lot of small tedious work in preparation for the next step.  I’m always amazed at how long this preparation takes.  It’s always a dap here and a touch there…waiting in between before proceeding.  My goals for this week are to:

  1. Install all additional cleating
  2. Complete all sanding
  3. Install stern
  4. Paint interior parts of boat (while I can still reach them)DSC00001DSC00002Clamping was my only choice for the CB Case area. DSC00005I used a brad nailer to set the cleating in place and then clamped for additional pressure.DSC00006I labeled all the cleats prior to glue up for clarity.  Once glued, I didn’t want to make a mistake installing the cleats.  There is a lot going on here and the epoxy is curing.  A Sharpie helped me keep track of all the pieces.  The numbering designation is:  BH 5-6, H stands for horizontal piece.

I spend more time cleaning up than installing.  There is always a lot of squeeze out, but it’s much easier to clean up now than after the epoxy has cured.

Anxious to get some planks up.

Centerboard Case Cleating

Adding cleating to the centerboard case area was a bit of a brain teaser.  After reviewing how other builders completed this task, things became more clear. DSC00002I first ran a strip of packing tape to the edge of my level.DSC00003This is the area that needs to be cleated.  As you can see, I cannot simply shoot staples from the back side of this area into the cleating, due to the centerboard case placement.  DSC00004I placed the level (taped side down) and clamped it to the surrounding cleating previously installed.  I then cut 6 battens (1/4″thick x 281/2″ long).  I used the battens to apply pressure to the cleating, holding it securely against the level.  I placed the battens in such a manner as to create a slight upward pressure.  This ensures that the cleating will stay up tight against the level.DSC00005Just another angle.DSC00006I had a simple realization today in my wood shop.  How do you build a sailboat?  One stick at a time…a lot like life.

Installing BH 1-3 and Mast Box

With the mast box built and glued to BH3, I was ready to move forward with the installation of BH 1-3.    DSC00016Stem installed with cleating.DSC00001I used a sharpie to mark each of the cleats.  They all need two coats of epoxy and routered edges.  DSC00005Mast box and BH 3 installed and filleted.DSC00002BH 2 installed plus cleating on both sides of the stem installed.  DSC00004You can see the fiberglass I wrapped around the lower mast box in this photo.  DSC00012More stem cleating installed.DSC00011Glass wrapped around the top of the mast box.  DSC00006Ready for BH 1.DSC00006I used the supplied plywood panels to properly align all bulkheads.

DSC00004Notice the deck support piece clamped in this photo.  Where does it describe the installation of this piece in the manual?  To my knowledge, it doesn’t.  I had the support beams filleted and then just happened to stumbled onto this piece.  Fortunately, the fillet had not cured.  I removed the sides and bottom fillet just in time to glue up and install this piece.  DSC00003The top of the deck supports joining BH 2.  I kept this area clean for installation of the deck top to come later.  Sure glad I found this BH 2 support piece in time to install before the fillet set up.

DSC00001Cabin supports installed (though they didn’t exactly line up with the cut outs in BH 4) and drilled for under cabin accessories.  Note, the plywood supports will come off in a later stage.

Just one step of a time, keeps things moving forward.

Glassing Mast Trunk

The plans call for wrapping the outside edges in fiberglass.  I decided to add the glass while the epoxy was still curing to avoid sanding.  I’ll add additional epoxy to the weave in 8-10 hours.  DSC00002These top edges will be cut flush with the top of the mast trunk, with a razor blade in about 8 hours.DSC00003This bottom wrap was a bit of an after thought.  It would have worked out a lot better if I had rounded the bottom edges before attempting the wrap.  I’ll try to work a little more epoxy into these white edges after things set up a bit.

DSC00051Wrapping top of mast trunk.  I used one continuous wrap of about 35″ to go all the way around.

Building Mast Trunk

After several last minute vacations, before my kids go back to school, I found some time to continue building Shackleton.

I decided to follow Dave’s lead (building #243) and build the Mast Trunk on the bench.  After mocking up the process dozens of times, I finally decided to just start building.  The process went rather smoothly as follows:

  1. First I rolled and brushed all joint, dado and fillet areas with unthickened epoxy.
  2. I then brushed thickened epoxy into all dados on BH3, mast ramp and bottom plate.
  3. I then positioned the mast trunk sides into the dados on BH3.
  4. I then shot two 3/4″ staples through the bottom plate, into the mast trunk sides (at the forward bottom corner location). This held the lower mast trunk sides vertical.
  5. I then positioned the top ramp piece and clamped it to the mast trunk sides.  This held the upper mast trunk sides vertical.
  6. I then filleted both inside and outside joint areas of the open mast trunk (this was really nice because it allowed great access to create the inside fillets).
  7. I then placed the Y piece on the top.
  8. After checking all alignment, I weighted the top and clamps the sides together.

DSC00025DSC00024DSC00028    DSC00029DSC00026Next, I’ll glass the outside corners, ramp and bottom plate.  

I’m having fun, baby!