Installing BH 1-3 and Mast Box

With the mast box built and glued to BH3, I was ready to move forward with the installation of BH 1-3.    DSC00016Stem installed with cleating.DSC00001I used a sharpie to mark each of the cleats.  They all need two coats of epoxy and routered edges.  DSC00005Mast box and BH 3 installed and filleted.DSC00002BH 2 installed plus cleating on both sides of the stem installed.  DSC00004You can see the fiberglass I wrapped around the lower mast box in this photo.  DSC00012More stem cleating installed.DSC00011Glass wrapped around the top of the mast box.  DSC00006Ready for BH 1.DSC00006I used the supplied plywood panels to properly align all bulkheads.

DSC00004Notice the deck support piece clamped in this photo.  Where does it describe the installation of this piece in the manual?  To my knowledge, it doesn’t.  I had the support beams filleted and then just happened to stumbled onto this piece.  Fortunately, the fillet had not cured.  I removed the sides and bottom fillet just in time to glue up and install this piece.  DSC00003The top of the deck supports joining BH 2.  I kept this area clean for installation of the deck top to come later.  Sure glad I found this BH 2 support piece in time to install before the fillet set up.

DSC00001Cabin supports installed (though they didn’t exactly line up with the cut outs in BH 4) and drilled for under cabin accessories.  Note, the plywood supports will come off in a later stage.

Just one step of a time, keeps things moving forward.

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4 thoughts on “Installing BH 1-3 and Mast Box

  1. Au Contraire –
    Deck Support page 57 of the manual, images 123-126 🙂

    • Make a curved cleat for the fore-side of bulkhead #2 to support
    the deck. Use a batten to draw the curve and door-skin to make a
    template. Allow a cutout for the fore-aft deck support beams. Dry-fi t,
    glue in and fillet. Fill screw holes. (imgs 123-126)

    Keep up the great work. It looks like a real clean build!

    Simeon

  2. Simeon – yes, I was going to point that out, too!

    Brent – I ran into the same problem on my build. Like you, I had put fillets on the front side of B2, but unlike you I didn’t discover that was a problem until they were cured. I ended up carving away at the cleat to fit it around the fillets. I show that here: http://woodnmetalguy.blogspot.com/2014/04/mini-tool-review-microplane-rasp.html

    I think I found another little mess-up on my build also, today. I think I beveled the top of the transom the wrong way (sloping down in back vs. sloping down in front. There are computer scribed lines on the front of the transom, and in Stage 4 (page 42) it says to transfer the lines to the aft face of the transom and then bevel it with a block plane. I think the line along the curved top section is an exception, and doesn’t get transferred, so the bevel on that slopes down going forward. I’ll find out for sure when I attempt to fit the transom cap in the next day or two.

    — Dave

    • Dave, thanks for the heads up! I’ll now be watching for that potential mistake. Ya, I think it would be very helpful if the manual had a statement of warning with regard to the forward side of BH 2 not getting filleted on page 41.

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