Plank #2 & Rudder Head Assembly

Installing plank #2 is straight forward and easily accomplished.  The only issue is being careful to keep the plank the correct height.  It helps to have something you can rest the plank on while aligning.  I used two adjustable table stands for support.

I stated “straight forward and easily accomplished”.  Yet, after installing the very last copper wire for the port side of plank, I stood back to enjoy the majesty of the boat and suddenly noticed a problem.  As I looked closer, it became crystal clear.  I had just installed the starboard plank on the port side of the boat (placing the epoxy side outward).  After a moment of complete drunken stupor, I went in for breakfast to think things over.  After downing a green smoothie and a piece of wheat bread, I took the wire cutters and cut the whole thing off.  It seems no matter how hard one tries to prevent making mistakes, they always happen.  The secret is to stay calm and simply make the correction.  Before bed that night, both planks were correctly installed.

DSC00025Next, I’ll epoxy plank #2 to the garboard plank.DSC00002I began working on the rudder head in my spare time.  I decided to glass several of the parts to pick up a little extra width to better accommodate my rudder width.DSC00008Routing the rudder uphaul/downhaul line.  After seeing what others have done, I settled on a simple, ‘ham n egger’ solution.  DSC00009I cut a large radius corner for the lines to follow.  Later I’ll build up this corner with epoxy and paint to provide a low friction surface.  This low tech solution also allows the lines to angle slightly outboard, running along both sides of the tiller handle.   DSC00010After cutting the large curve on my band saw, the radius looked pretty rough.  The groove in the center is where an dowel alignment hole was located.DSC00013Shaping this radius was enjoyable on my Ridgid sander.  DSC000141/8″ dowels kept all the panels in proper alignment.  DSC00015Now , that’s a curve of which I can be proud.  DSC00018  Glueing these parts separately from the rudder checks, allows better access for painting the interior surfaces.  DSC00017This photo shows the routing for the rudder uphaul line.  The tiller handle will be installed above the line.  I widened this area to make room for both lines.


Nothing beats a half day in the shop.  Time to think, enjoy the process and see your progression.  If more people built sailboats, the world would, by necessity, become a better place.  You can give your money to the phycologist or buy a Scamp kit and do something with your hands.  This my friend, is a no brainer.

Up next:  Epoxying Plank #2 and finessing motor mount placement (yes, I decided on a motor).


3 thoughts on “Plank #2 & Rudder Head Assembly

  1. Brent –

    Do you just have that plank wired on at this time? You will need to epoxy that joint all along the length of the hull panel, of course. It’s obviously ungainly to handle, especially single-handedly, so what I did was remove or loosen the ties on one end and apply the thickened epoxy, then wire it into place, and undo the other end and handle the same way. Then the panel is never entirely loose and getting away from you.

    And good that you caught the problem before epoxy was in place!

    Regarding the rudder head and the uphaul/downhaul lines, I initially thought you’d have a problem with the tiller restricting their movement, but then realized the tiller is pinned in place and you should be OK, as long as you either removed enough stock for clearance, or make the tiller a little shorter in the vertical dimension there so the lines have clearance.

    Looking good!

    — Dave

  2. Dave,

    Yes, I removed probably about 1/4″ of stock material for the lines to come through without interfering with the tiller handle. With the tiller being pinned in place, the uphaul/downhaul lines may well provide a soft stop when raising the tiller arm.


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