Finishing the Sole

DSC00005While I still had good access by reaching over plank #2, I decided to finish the cockpit sole.  I wrapped the paint up the side walls of the sole 2″ all the way around the boat for a bathtub look.  I plan to varnish above the paint line later in the build.DSC00007DSC00010I then taped off the sections of the floor where I wanted to use non-skid.  The product many recommended was Kiwigrip.  One quart was sufficient for all areas.DSC00019The process is actually very simple.  

  1. tape off the areas to be painted, rounding all corners with a razor blade
  2. sand the area to be painted for good adhesion
  3. trowel on Kiwigrip
  4. roll with provided roller
  5. remove tape will paint is still wet

DSC00020  DSC00014DSC00017DSC00015

It was a lot of fun to see things take shape as I pulled the tape off.  This meets the ‘ham’n’egger’ standard.  I very happy with these results.

 

Pintles, Gudgeons Rework

As earlier mentioned, I was unhappy with the friction in the rudder after my first attempt at installing the pintles and gudgeons.  After thinking things over, I decided to drill out the holes, fill them with epoxy and try again.  Well…Success this time!DSC00002

I started by marking the center line and using a square to mark the horizontal location of the gudgeon holes.  It now moves freely from side to side without friction. DSC00003Based on Simeon’s recommendation, I purchased the Racelite heavy duty pintles and gudgeons from Duckworks Magazine.  They are well build, solid and simple.  Just what Shackleton ordered.  DSC00002When installing the rudder downhaul line, I realized I didn’t have room for a knot and washer to secure the line into the rudder.  It just wouldn’t fit in the epoxied hole I had to work with.  So, I grabbed some artificial sinew and doubled the line over on itself.  This fits nicely in the hole and secures the downhaul line.  DSC00001The rudder uphaul line was secured with a simple knot.DSC00005I color coded the lines:  green for downhaul and red for uphaul.  I also chose red for the CB  uphaul line.  My reasoning for the color coding was:  ‘Green for smooth sailing, drop the CB and rudder’  and red for ‘quick, raise the foils before we run a ground’.

 I’m so glad I took the time to get this right.  So many times we hurry ourselves and are never quite happy with the end results.  I’ve owned sailboats in the past that had issues I could not solve.  With Scamp, I’ve tried to make this boat mine and never hurry or short change the process.  I could not build one of these boats if I were in a hurry.  I have no idea when I’ll be done, but when I complete the boat, I want to be happy with the build.  This means a great deal to me.  Details mean a great deal to me.  The overall construction quality of the boat means a great deal to me.  

CB Uphaul Rigging

I wanted to install the center board uphaul blocks and cleat before things got difficult to reach.  I also wanted to clearly see where to screw the components with respect to the CB blocking.   DSC00002Using a 1/2″ forsner bit, I drilled a hole on a slight angle so that lake water will drain back into the CB case.  I was careful to avoid all existing screws. DSC00003Dave (building #243) recommended this little tool to flare the end of the copper tubing.  DSC00004DSC00006It worked like a champ.DSC00007Test fitting for length.  This forward end will be flared with a plumb bob. DSC00008You can almost see the forward flare on the tubing.  DSC00010The screws for the fairlead need to straddle the copper tubing and miss the ends of the turn block screws.

DSC00003All mocked up with block, fiddle block and cleat.  I angled the cleat slightly to match the angle of the incoming line.

Next up, sanding and painting the seat longitudinals and sole rain gutter.  

Seat Extensions Installed

I knew I wanted to extend the stock seating by adding a front edge extension.  After looking at many other designs, I decided to keep it simple and go with the “ham & egger” approach.  I grabbed some Vertical Grain Douglas Fir, rounded the edges and cut to length.  DSC00004I screwed through the back side of the seat longitudinals where I had access, and used clamps for additional even pressure.  DSC00001I held the edge up 3/8″ to meet the seat top yet to be installed.  The extensions measure 2,1/4″ wide and 1,1/2″ high.DSC00005This photo shows the simple edge shape I settled on.  If I use a rowing seat, I will design a ‘drop-in’ seat as opposed to sliding it in from the top end.  As for sleeping with 2 people on the boat, I plan to pitch a small tent on land, so I really don’t need a center groove.

Now more sanding and painting, then I will install CB uphaul rigging.

Pintles and Gudgeons Work

After trial mounting the pintles and gudgeons, I had to back up and perform a redo.  The rudder head assembly was not rotating freely, but rather had some resistance as it rotated from port to starboard.  I also had not over drilled the holes to receive the epoxy plug with center drilled out.  After thinking about this for a few days, I decided it was best to rework this step.DSC00008I also decided to make 2 backer plates to further strengthen the gudgeon attachment points.  The backer plate has been drilled out (oversized) to receive the epoxy plug.DSC00005Here you see the new over sized holes drilled through the transom and transom doubler. I used the backer plate as a template to help properly align the gudgeon holes when drilling through the transom (you can see the screw hole marks where I mounted the backer plate).DSC00012Using a toothpick, I poked small holes through the blue tape.  I then worked thickened epoxy (from the front side) into these holes.  This allowed the air to escape and thickened epoxy to push through, completely filling the holes.DSC00010Transom view showing the backer plates and motor mount doubler in place.  Before I glued in the doublers (and while I still had good access), I drilled both drain holes.

Hopefully, I can get a friction free mount of the rudder head assembly this time. 

Installing Transom Doubler

Excited about moving forward, I placed my attention toward the transom doubler.  The aft bottom edge of the doubler needs to be beveled to fit over the sole fillet.DSC00002DSC00004The beveled edge allows the doubler to fit tight against the sole and transom.DSC00006Clamps worked well around the tiller cut out and transom top.  Down bellow, I used six 3/4″ stainless screws to bring the doubler tight against the transom.DSC00007Summary:

I spent time removing the squeeze out and making a small fillet around the transom doubler.  I’ll now work on placement of the gudgeons, outboard motor bracket and doubler.

Thankful for a heated garage so I can continue building.  

 

Installing the Sole

This was not a hard step to complete.  Just take your time and be deliberate.  Plan your screw holes well as to hit all cleating previously installed in your boat.  DSC000021 coat of paint.DSC000012 coats of paint.DSC00001Three coats of paint, then screwed into cleating.  I coated the bottom of the sole and all cleating with unthickened epoxy,  Six hours later, I placed thickened epoxy on all cleating.   I then spread the thickened epoxy flat over all the cleating material with a small flat stick.  I then plopped the floor in place and screwed it down.DSC00003I used a syringe to place thickened epoxy into all screw holes.

Summary:

This was so easy to do on the bench.  You can pre drill and counter sink all screw holes in the sole.  Then use the sole as a template to pre drill holes into your cleating (by placing the sole into the boat).  I used #8 x 1″ stainless screws for the sole perimeter holes and #8 x 1,1/4″ stainless screws for all the sole doubler holes.

Next steps: 

  1. Sand flush the epoxy filled screw holes
  2. Paint over screw holes
  3. Fillet sole/seat longitudinal edge.
  4. Paint filleted areas and seat longitudinals.