As earlier mentioned, I was unhappy with the friction in the rudder after my first attempt at installing the pintles and gudgeons. After thinking things over, I decided to drill out the holes, fill them with epoxy and try again. Well…Success this time!
I started by marking the center line and using a square to mark the horizontal location of the gudgeon holes. It now moves freely from side to side without friction. Based on Simeon’s recommendation, I purchased the Racelite heavy duty pintles and gudgeons from Duckworks Magazine. They are well build, solid and simple. Just what Shackleton ordered. When installing the rudder downhaul line, I realized I didn’t have room for a knot and washer to secure the line into the rudder. It just wouldn’t fit in the epoxied hole I had to work with. So, I grabbed some artificial sinew and doubled the line over on itself. This fits nicely in the hole and secures the downhaul line. The rudder uphaul line was secured with a simple knot.I color coded the lines: green for downhaul and red for uphaul. I also chose red for the CB uphaul line. My reasoning for the color coding was: ‘Green for smooth sailing, drop the CB and rudder’ and red for ‘quick, raise the foils before we run a ground’.
I’m so glad I took the time to get this right. So many times we hurry ourselves and are never quite happy with the end results. I’ve owned sailboats in the past that had issues I could not solve. With Scamp, I’ve tried to make this boat mine and never hurry or short change the process. I could not build one of these boats if I were in a hurry. I have no idea when I’ll be done, but when I complete the boat, I want to be happy with the build. This means a great deal to me. Details mean a great deal to me. The overall construction quality of the boat means a great deal to me.
I knew I wanted to extend the stock seating by adding a front edge extension. After looking at many other designs, I decided to keep it simple and go with the “ham & egger” approach. I grabbed some Vertical Grain Douglas Fir, rounded the edges and cut to length. I screwed through the back side of the seat longitudinals where I had access, and used clamps for additional even pressure. I held the edge up 3/8″ to meet the seat top yet to be installed. The extensions measure 2,1/4″ wide and 1,1/2″ high.This photo shows the simple edge shape I settled on. If I use a rowing seat, I will design a ‘drop-in’ seat as opposed to sliding it in from the top end. As for sleeping with 2 people on the boat, I plan to pitch a small tent on land, so I really don’t need a center groove.
Now more sanding and painting, then I will install CB uphaul rigging.
Excited about moving forward, I placed my attention toward the transom doubler. The aft bottom edge of the doubler needs to be beveled to fit over the sole fillet.The beveled edge allows the doubler to fit tight against the sole and transom.Clamps worked well around the tiller cut out and transom top. Down bellow, I used six 3/4″ stainless screws to bring the doubler tight against the transom.Summary:
I spent time removing the squeeze out and making a small fillet around the transom doubler. I’ll now work on placement of the gudgeons, outboard motor bracket and doubler.
Thankful for a heated garage so I can continue building.
This was not a hard step to complete. Just take your time and be deliberate. Plan your screw holes well as to hit all cleating previously installed in your boat. 1 coat of paint.2 coats of paint.Three coats of paint, then screwed into cleating. I coated the bottom of the sole and all cleating with unthickened epoxy, Six hours later, I placed thickened epoxy on all cleating. I then spread the thickened epoxy flat over all the cleating material with a small flat stick. I then plopped the floor in place and screwed it down.I used a syringe to place thickened epoxy into all screw holes.
This was so easy to do on the bench. You can pre drill and counter sink all screw holes in the sole. Then use the sole as a template to pre drill holes into your cleating (by placing the sole into the boat). I used #8 x 1″ stainless screws for the sole perimeter holes and #8 x 1,1/4″ stainless screws for all the sole doubler holes.
- Sand flush the epoxy filled screw holes
- Paint over screw holes
- Fillet sole/seat longitudinal edge.
- Paint filleted areas and seat longitudinals.