Pintles and Gudgeons Work

After trial mounting the pintles and gudgeons, I had to back up and perform a redo.  The rudder head assembly was not rotating freely, but rather had some resistance as it rotated from port to starboard.  I also had not over drilled the holes to receive the epoxy plug with center drilled out.  After thinking about this for a few days, I decided it was best to rework this step.DSC00008I also decided to make 2 backer plates to further strengthen the gudgeon attachment points.  The backer plate has been drilled out (oversized) to receive the epoxy plug.DSC00005Here you see the new over sized holes drilled through the transom and transom doubler. I used the backer plate as a template to help properly align the gudgeon holes when drilling through the transom (you can see the screw hole marks where I mounted the backer plate).DSC00012Using a toothpick, I poked small holes through the blue tape.  I then worked thickened epoxy (from the front side) into these holes.  This allowed the air to escape and thickened epoxy to push through, completely filling the holes.DSC00010Transom view showing the backer plates and motor mount doubler in place.  Before I glued in the doublers (and while I still had good access), I drilled both drain holes.

Hopefully, I can get a friction free mount of the rudder head assembly this time. 


3 thoughts on “Pintles and Gudgeons Work

  1. Dave, yes it was an alignment problem. It is very difficult to align them perfectly. I was patient and took my time, but still managed to get it a little off. Any suggestions? Brent

    • Not sure what’s best. I haven’t drilled the holes for mine yet, but wonder if having the rudder head installed on the hardware when marking the holes would be helpful. I suppose there’s a little play in the parts so even that would not guarantee ‘perfect’ alignment. Maybe a reference line drawn on the transom. Should be able to eye up the part that has the pin so see that it is straight, but the part with the hole may not be so obvious. — Dave

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