Anytime you fabricate your own parts, things happen. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it right. Well, the first outboard bracket came close. It will work, but places the outboard cavitation plate 1 1/2″ below the estimated water line. My concern is that in rolling waves, the motor will cavitate. I was striving for a 3″ drop. I knew I wouldn’t be happy with the original bracket so I went back to the drawing board. Behold the second version. You can see the difference in the mounting plate. The first version (to the right) measures 10″ high. The improved version (to the left) measures 7 1/2″ high. This shorter version allows the cavitation plate to be 3-4″ below the designed water line. Additionally, I was a little nervous about the V. G. Douglas Fir splitting when I bolt the bracket to the transom. My father recommended glueing a 1/4″ plywood piece to the back for increased strength. Hard to go against the wisdom of a father. To summarize the changes:
- Lower back plate height allowing for a lower mounting position.
- Circular holes in the sides to lighten up the weight.
- Solid back plate for more mounting options to transom (the original design had a center cut-out).
- Strengthened the mounting plate with 1/4″ plywood.
- Improve version weights 6.28 lb. (original weighted 6.25 lb.)
- All other measurements remained the same as original design (documented in earlier post).
This boat is all about getting things right. Getting things the way you like them. Otherwise, just go buy one. To me, this is the fun of building your own…it is your own. By taking a little extra time, you can make Scamp uniquely yours.
It’s more about patience and consistency than proficiency.