The cabin top has been glassed with 2 coats of epoxy. I noticed the cabin top edges looked a little thin (weave not quite filled), so I went over these areas with a 3 coat of epoxy.
I wrapped the glass up the side walls of the mast box, which already had one wrap of fiberglass all the way around them. (Others have suggested doubling up this area of the mast box with additional okoume plywood. After thinking this over, I decided against this because it would prevent me from screwing hardware into the cabin supports just under the top. So I decided to wrap this area again for additional support. Not sure it needed it…but it made me feel better). I used a round over bit on the top and bottom of the fore and aft cabin top edges. This finishes off the cabin top edge very nicely. I have used a 1/8″ rounder over bit a lot on this build.
The bow of the boat will be finished a little differently. I cut it flush with a flush cut router bit and Japanese draw saw. I am going to fit a solid piece of Sapelle here like I use for the rub rail. I’ll tie this piece into the rub rails for a finished look.
Details to follow.
There are a few stages in this build that demand your upmost attention. Think it through late at night…ponder all the appropriate steps for success. Think it through again…don’t forget anything. Think it through again. Then, don’t screw up.
Glueing down the cabin top was right up there with the centerboard bushing. Get it right and heavenly choirs will be singing Hallelujah…get it wrong and the jaws of Hell open wide to receive you. First off, I filed down the mast ramp to better fit the cabin top. The cabin top looks proud in this photo, but it’s not screwed down yet, and riding a little high in the saddle.Dave (building Scamp #243) has a thorough explanation of the steps he followed in installing his cabin top. I copied them. My only deviation from Dave’s approach was that I countersunk s.s. screws into the top 2 cabin cleats. I was careful to miss the accessory holes I had drilled through the cabin cleats earlier. My countersink is designed for a #6 screw. But, I have found that the screws don’t tighten as well as they should, so I’m drilling out the screw hole (increasing its size). If the screw gets hung up in the block, it will not tighten like it should and may strip out in the solid stock behind it. In theory, the screw should just barely fit through the block (and plywood), so all the threads tighten in the solid stock behind it, producing a very tight clamping action. Hence, I enlarged these holes and the plywood cabin top holes to optimize the clamping action of the screw. I wanted all the aces in my hand for this nerve-racking step. Ya baby, that’s a cabin top If you have done your homework well, things may go smoothly. I’m glad to report, all the preparation paid off and things went very smoothly for me. It was down right fun actually.
Steps I followed:
- Set everything out carefully, like preparing for surgery.
- Double check everything.
- Wet all surfaces with unthickened epoxy.
- Applied a thickened paste to all surface tops.
- Screw cabin top down into the top 2 center cleats.
- Tightened straps and inserted wooden sticks for even clamping pressure.
- Screwed the outer edges down using wooden blocks for even pressure.
- Applied inside fillets and worked additional epoxy into areas that needed more.
- Cleaned up and went for a 27 mile bike ride with my hot wife. Life is good.
Now Shackleton is beginning to look like a proper vessel.
First up: Beveling the cabin top cleats. You can’t just slap the cabin top on…oh no, you first need to bevel the cleats for proper fit of the cabin top. This will produce a lot of shavings from the block plane. You gotta love your block plane. If dog is man’s best friend…the hand plane is man’s best tool.
Getting very close. A little more planing and I’ll be there.I knew I would be removing quite a bit of material here, so I cut my cleating material 1 1/8″ x 5/8″. I needed the extra height for all the material I would be removing to acheive the proper bevel. I needed the 5/8″ thickness for easy bending around the cabin sides. I removed all the screws I used to hold the cleating 9 hours after glue up. I then used clamps to finish off the cure process. This allowed full access to the cleating without worrying about hitting a screw with my hand plane.
This now meets the ‘ham n egger’ standard, I’m ready to look at the cabin top.
It’s feeling so good to be at this stage of the build. It’s almost like the wooden boat Gods are smiling down on you with providential care & guidance. I’m definitely feeling the love.The front of the cabin sides need to be notched out to fit over the deck.The cleating needed to be beveled to better fit against the side. Though not shown here, a block plane made short work of this.
Somewhere I saw a picture of a Scamp with a handhold cut out of the cabin sides. I thought this made good practical sense and looked great. I epoxied the doubler onto the sides (while working on the bench). Then I used a 1 1/2″ forsner bit to drill 2 holes about 4 1/2″ apart (measured outside to outside). I then cut out the center material using a jig saw.I cleaned up the edges with my shinto rasp and used a 1/8″ round over bit to finish things off. I think this handhold will be very helpful boarding from a dock or just climbing into the boat from the shore (there are no beaches in Idaho). This photo also shows the relative size of the port lights. They measure 6″ in diameter.
Finally, I offset the front doubler pieces just to add a little dimension. Correction: Actually truth be told, I didn’t hardly have enough overhang on the front of the side panels to allow the doubler to fit. I would have needed to cut it so thin on the vertical side, that I decided to simply overhang it a bit. This allowed more room for an inside fillet.
The sides were not difficult to fit and this step went off without a hitch.
Now setting my attention to the cabin top.
While I was working on deck preparations, I decided to take time to work on cabin windows (yes, now I’m multi tasking which I said earlier I would not do). As I get closer to finishing this build, it seems I want to speed up more in anticipation of completion. So, cabin windows. In checking the internet, the beautiful brass windows referenced in the plans ranged between $60 – 125/per light. This seemed excessive to me, so I decided to go with the ham’n egger approach and build my own. I first cut out the window opening in the cabin side panels. I then drilled holes and rounded the edges (and applied more epoxy). Not knowing how to secure the window lens, I called the smartest guy I know to consult. My dad said, “Son, you need a 3/8″ offset router bit”, A who? “Home Depots got em”. So off I went to purchase the strange bit. $29 dollars later, I had the bit in hand. After cutting 4 round hoops from 1/4″ plywood, I used the router to cut the offset. It worked like a champ. Now, the lens can be securely held in place by the outer hoops. The Lexan panels were purchased from Home Depot for $4.95/ea. I cut the circular shape on my band saw. Two coats of epoxy later, I was ready for finish paint.I found this Rust-Oleum Copper Hammered paint and thought I would give it a try.The results were amazing. The paint goes on as a solid color and then begins to separate into the blotchy hammered look. It levels out remarkably well and dries very fast. It created a very neat looking window frame.
These window frames are lightweight, simple and easy to build. If you don’t want to spend $200 on beautiful heavy windows, give these a try. I’m very happy with the results.
There comes a time in every mans life when he needs to rise up off the couch and install a deck. Today was my day.But first, I installed cleat blocks between the gunwales and carlins for the 4 deck cleats which will be installed later. The blocks were made from (3) 3/8″ plywood scraps glued together and then cut to fit. I used a round over bit on the bottom edges of the block to create a smooth transition between blocks and gunwales/carlins.I own 68 clamps. I thought surely this would be enough. Yet, just to be sure, earlier in the week, I purchase another 10. Well, after clamping on the deck, I realized I was still a little short. So, I sent my teenaged daughter and son to go buy 10 more clamps while I stayed and continued working on the deck. $53.00 later, they returned with another 10. Surly 88 clamps would be enough. No, I could easily have used another 10 but I made it work. I promise that no matter how many clamps you have, you will still want another 10. After securing the deck, I completed a few fillets to finish things off. This is the deck/transom fillet. This is the BK2/front deck fillet.
Steps I followed:
- Applied the second coat of epoxy to the underside of the deck within 10 hours of the initial coat (to save sanding).
- With this second coat still wet, I had my kids help me position the deck onto the boat.
- Before doing so, I wet all carlins/gunwales and other mating surfaces with un-thickened epoxy (I used a roller to ensure complete coverage. Roll it several times to work the epoxy into the wood fibers. They are very thirsty.)
- Placed a thick bead of thickened epoxy onto all gunwale/carlin tops.
- Used a stir stick to smooth the thickened epoxy out flat over all the mating surfaces.
- Called for the kids to help position the wet deck in place.
- Clamped it down using 88 clamps (100 clamps would have been even better).
- Cleaned up the squeeze out and admired my work.
What I learned:
- You can never have too many clamps.
- Spread the thickened epoxy completely over the entire gunwale and carlins. This will make for a very wide strong bonding surface.
- Take your time and preplan all the steps. This went remarkably smooth (other than frantically running to the store to buy 10 more clamps).
- I didn’t use any screws in this installation. The epoxy is plenty strong to hold everything down and you save the work of filling all the screw holes.
Have you touched your Scamp today?