Glassing Planks 1 & 2

After glassing the hull, I’m now ready to glass the planks.  I chose to glass the hull in one piece, followed by plank 1 & 2.  The plans only call for plank 1 to be glassed, but I had the glass and just felt better about also wrapping plank 2.

With the hull epoxy still green, I laid the plank fiberglass into position (the overlap onto the green hull held things in place).  It was just tacky enough to stay put with a light touch.

This was harder than I expected.  The plank joints were difficult to get right.  Fix the top joint…pull the lower joint…Fix the lower joint…pull the top joint.  I finally got a system that worked fairly well, but the joints are not perfect.  Some small air bubbles exist.  The radius is just too sharp for proper glass adhesion.  I plan to sand through these areas to remove any potential future problems with water being trapped behind the glass.  DSC00039The hull chine has 2 layers of glass on all edges.  The bow has 4 wraps of glass over the plank 1 joint.  DSC00040I wrapped the glass 1″ over the the plank 2/3 joint.  DSC00038

What I learned:

  1. The glass takes more epoxy than expected to properly fill the weave (I almost ran out…this would have been disastrous).
  2. The sides took more time than the hull, due to the lap joint.
  3. The lap joint didn’t want to lay down properly (there are a few air spots that refused to conform)
  4. A squeegee is a must to work the lap joint.

I feel a little uncertain as to the proper steps in fairing the hull,  Any and all suggestions are welcome.

 

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3 thoughts on “Glassing Planks 1 & 2

  1. After I filled the weave with 2 coats of unthickened epoxy, I layered on a 2 layers thickened with 410. That made it easy to sand smooth; albeit dusty (Abranet for the win!). I only sanded completely through the 410 in a couple places where I knew the glass had bubbled up.
    Once that was smooth, then I layered on another fairly thick coat with just graphite powder. That will stay unsanded and bright and smooth on the bottom. The top I will sand and eventually paint.

    A pro boat builder might poo-poo the idea of relatively soft layer of 410 between the harder layers, but the thought of all that sanding of hardened straight epoxy was not appealing. I think the glass protects the boat well from punctures and bumps. I did this on the cabin top as well.

    Buy the quart can of 423 graphite, I used over 1/2 of it between my centerboard, rudder and the hull.

  2. Brent – Looks like your weave is mostly filled already. I think I would hit it with the sander now to see how much filling you have to do. Low spots will remain shiny while the high spots will be matte. I sanded mine with a firm pad on my random orbit sander using 80-grid paper. Using a sander with good dust collection makes the work nicer and helps keep the paper from clogging up. The epoxy needs to be well cured before sanding. To fill the remaining weave I put on a coat or two of epoxy thickened with microballoons. That made the epoxy go much further and made sanding easier. I applied that with a roller. Be careful not to sand through the glass on the corners. — Dave

  3. Thanks Guys…I now feel inspired to get going on the fairing process. But, I’ll have to wait until more epoxy arrives. I think I’ll get going on the skegs in the mean time.

    Brent

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