I looked around the shop for any noble scraps of wood to become the honorary coaming cap. The red oak left over from the skegs kept calling to me from across the dusty shop floor. After a proper interview to determine worthiness, the oak got the job.
This is 2 pieces of 3/8″ x 1 1/8″ red oak. I epoxied them one at a time for easy bending. I ran the oak long to provide the material for the gusset cap. This should be enough extra to allow me a few shots at the compound cut needed for the gusset cap.
I used small wooden blocks to prevent the clamps from denting the inside of the cockpit coaming.
The aft end was cut short to transition into the coaming prior to the curve. Hard to see, but I rounded the bottom inside edges of the oak for a smooth fit between the 2 boards.
I then used the Shinto rasp and sandpaper to shape the aft end.
The forward end was cut with a Japanese draw saw. I left it a touch proud of the gusset.
Then I fine tuned the cut with the Shinto rasp to achieve a flush surface with the gusset.
I then took the left over glued up material and began cutting/shaping the compound angle needed to fit against the cabin sides.
Clamped in place with a small fillet around the junction. Once cured, I’ll work all the top edges flush and round over all exposed edges.
It’s impossible to get all the top edges exactly flush, so I ran both oak pieces a touch proud of the cockpit coaming on the top side. Then, once all is cured, I’ll file/sand the top oak edges down to match the plywood edge for a nice flush top surface.
Sometimes in an attempt to keep things moving, I move too fast.
This was my attempt at glassing the gusset to the cockpit coaming. After I took this photograph and looked at it on my computer, I realized it was all wrong. I instantly noticed 2 things: 1-the top edge is not flush and 2- the corner is too sharp for proper glass adhesion. I should’ve fixed these two things before attempting to glass. So, before it cured, I went out and pulled it off.
This photo shows my attempt at correcting the problem. The top line still needs additional work, but the corner is much smoother, allowing for good glass adhesion. I also rounded the glass corners for a smoother finish.
Not perfect, but it now passes the ham n egger standard.
Wow, I can’t believe I’m actually working on the last few pieces of this build. For anyone reading wondering if they can build a Scamp, my advise is: Yes, if you are persistent and not afraid to work through problems and willing to work everyday for just over a year. Otherwise, go buy one.
I have truly enjoyed this experience. But, I’m a ham n egger who loves a project. If you are a white glove guy, maybe you should start with a kayak and see how you enjoy it.
Enough sappy talk, let’s get to those cockpit coamings.
I first marked out where I wanted all the holes drilled. After double checking all measurements, I drilled out both coamings for a uniform look. I then used a counter sink on each coaming to insure the screw head was inset. I also rounded all exposed edges with an 1/8″ round over bit.
After proper glue up technique, I screwed the coamings into the gunwales. I used 1″ ss screws placed about 6″ apart all the way along the coaming.
I then laid a fillet into the outside edge of the coaming. This required 2 fillets for proper shape and size.
Now for the triangular pieces. After shaping the triangular pieces, and angling the edges to better fit against the coaming and cabin side, I clamped them in place and filleted the inside seams. I will fillet and glass the outside seams once the inside fillet has cured. Inside fillet.
I’ll clean up the edges of the glass after filling with epoxy.
When I attempted to tie my uphaul line to the center board, I clearly didn’t have enough room for the knot.
I decided to drill out a larger hole to accommodate the knot and prevent it from rubbing against the CB case. I used the plywood as a guide, clamping it against the CB to hold the forsner bit in place.
I drilled into the CB approximately 1/2″.
The line fits with ease.Uphaul line knot (figure 8) with tail tucked in. Now I began to wonder if I removed too much material…is it strong enough? Hole with 1/8″ round over bit applied to top edge. Then it hit me…why not epoxy the line in place?
While the epoxy was still green, I cleaned up the edges and took a little off the top for a flush fit.
- I didn’t want the knot rubbing against the CB case, so something had to be done.
- I had concerns about water intrusion into the CB where the lead line came into the knot area.
- I had concerns about the weight and leverage of the CB on the drilled out knot area.
- I’ve learned if anything strange can happen to me, it will.
- I didn’t want the uphaul line to have any chance of coming loose.
- I feel like this solution minimizes all of these concerns.
- I plan to build a trailer support for the CB to rest on while traveling (I believe towing Scamp with the CB up is the culprit for CB line wear), so I really don’t plan on needing to replace this line very often, if ever.
But wait, how will I replace the line? Easy peazy, lemon squeezy. Give me 3 minutes with a forsner bit and I’ll have the line and epoxy entirely removed, ready for a new one.
I feel good about the security of the line and the water integrity of the holes drilled. Sometimes what looks to be a mistake can turn out better than before. This baby is not coming loose.
While the boat is upside down, I finished the underside of the cabin top and the aft side of BH#3.The first step was to sand all areas to be varnished. I also taped off the area where I will be mounting backer plates. I contemplated over mounting the backer plates before varnishing, but felt I needed to mock it up properly (from the top side) to determine the proper size and placement of the backer blocks. So, I’ll finish these areas later. I like the look of a satin finish. I am using System Three Marine Spar Varnish in satin for all my bright work. Beautiful stuff…well worth the cost.
Ready to flip the boat right side up and place on trailer.