Finishing the Hull

I settled on Brightside Hatters White for my upper hull color.  I think it will blend well with the bright finish I’ll be applying to the rub rails (yet to be installed).  After multiple coats and a few mishaps (articulated below) here’s what I got.  DSC00037Excuse the dust on the black paint.DSC00044 DSC00043 DSC00042 DSC00039 DSC00038Summary:

  1. After applying 4 coats of graphite epoxy to the lower hull section, I applied 3 coats of epoxy on all remaining hull pieces.
  2. I then filled any low spots with micro balloons.
  3. I then sanded multiple times until I was satisfied.
  4. I then applied 3 coats of Hatteras White to all lower sections.
  5. Then disaster struck.

At this point, I thought all was well and that I was almost done with this arduous process.  But, after looking closely, I notice spiderweb like wrinkles in the finish.  They were present in 3 or 4 locations, some of which were quite large…say basketball size.  I have no idea what caused them.  I ran it over and over in my mind never reaching a logical cause and effect.  After a discouraging night of sleeping on it, I knew they had to be sanded out.  So, I strapped on a new filter mask and sanded the entire hull (problem areas more thoroughly than others).  I then applied another complete layer of paint.  Looking closely this time for the spiderweb wrinkles, they were not to be found.  I breathed a sigh of relief and applied one more coat and called it good.

This is not a perfect job.  Those of you who are really gifted at finish work will readily notice flaws in my finish.  But I achieved the ‘ham n egger’ standard.  That’s all I can ask for in this build.  As my dad would say, “we’re not building a piano”.  

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7 thoughts on “Finishing the Hull

    • Jeff,

      No I just used ordinary blue masking tape (3M). I thought it worked very extremely well and I had it on hand.

      Brent

      • Jeff, with regard to determining the DWL, I used a rotating laser level to clearly show the correct line. This would have been very hard to detect properly by myself. I’m sure others have done it, but the laser made it a simple task. It actually looks curved to the eye, due to the angles of the boat, but it is flat.
        Brent

  1. Hey, Brent! White on the port side and yellow on starboard? Bold paint scheme! 🙂 (I know it’s just the lighting).

    Must be the spider web thing was due to some contaminant on the surface, I suppose?

    When leveling the epoxy recently after overdrilling and filling the holes for my hatch latches on my cockpit sole, I noticed that the paint would chip off in some spots – poor adhesion to the epoxy below. In some spots around the hatch cutouts, looks like I painted directly over the final epoxy fill coat without a final sanding. So I ended up sanding the paint off the entire sole and recoating. I didn’t want it to start chipping off here and there after I had the non-skid applied. So I think it’s good now. Point is, I share your pain at having to back up a step and do-over…

    — Dave

    • Dave,

      In thinking through the spider web wrinkling…I believe I recoated too early. There was nothing on the wood other than epoxy. Everything was clean. But, I believe the first coat was still off gassing and caused the wrinkling. This is the only thing that makes sense to me. The later coats went on just fine…didn’t clean or attempt to clean anything…and nothing was dirty. Strange things happen under the midnight sun…

      Brent

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