Cockpit Coaming Cap

I looked around the shop for any noble scraps of wood to become the honorary coaming cap.  The red oak left over from the skegs kept calling to me from across the dusty shop floor.  After a proper interview to determine worthiness, the oak got the job.

DSC00036This is 2 pieces of 3/8″ x 1 1/8″ red oak.  I epoxied them one at a time for easy bending. I ran the oak long to provide the material for the gusset cap.  This should be enough extra to allow me a few shots at the compound cut needed for the gusset cap.

DSC00035I used small wooden blocks to prevent the clamps from denting the inside of the cockpit coaming.

DSC00037The aft end was cut short to transition into the coaming prior to the curve.  Hard to see, but I rounded the bottom inside edges of the oak for a smooth fit between the 2 boards.

DSC00047I then used the Shinto rasp and sandpaper to shape the aft end.

DSC00048The forward end was cut with a Japanese draw saw.  I left it a touch proud of the gusset.

DSC00040Then I fine tuned the cut with the Shinto rasp to achieve a flush surface with the gusset.

DSC00044I then took the left over glued up material and began cutting/shaping the compound angle needed to fit against the cabin sides.

DSC00051Clamped in place with a small fillet around the junction.  Once cured, I’ll work all the top edges flush and round over all exposed edges.


It’s impossible to get all the top edges exactly flush, so I ran both oak pieces a touch proud of the cockpit coaming on the top side.  Then, once all is cured, I’ll file/sand the top oak edges down to match the plywood edge for a nice flush top surface.


One thought on “Cockpit Coaming Cap

  1. Very nice work!

    Were you to do it over, or add to it, I would suggest an additional cap over both the coaming and the oak cap piece. The issue is about putting an adequate round-over along the inner edge of the 9 mm plywood coaming. Because of the ply edge, if you rout a round-over that’s more than about 1/4″ you expose far too much end grain on the ply. It’s just not comfortable to the forearm or back while sailing if you have a minimal round-over. With a 1/2″ or 3/8″ cap, you can get a decent round-over on the inside edge as well as protecting the end grain on the ply coaming top. Because of the bending involved, the piece would probably need to be laminated or steamed.

    That modification/addition is something I have planned for Noddy in the neat future 🙂


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s