CB Bolt Water Intrusion

While sailing Shackleton, I’ve had quite a bit of water coming through the CB bolt into the BH 4-5 area.  I attempted to silicon the bolt head, but to no avail.  Then while talking with John Welsford at the Skills Camp, he said all such problems can be easily fixed by using an O-ring.

DSC00416This is the first version.  Clunky, a bit ugly, no O-ring and leaked like a sieve, but it did keep the bolt in place.

DSC00416Parts of the new system.

DSC00419I will epoxy these two pieces together.  The bolt head fits into the circular hole and the lower piece prevents the bolt from working it’s way outward.

DSC00418The O-ring fits between the cap and the CB case.

DSC00416Like this…

DSC00417Genuine bicycle grease can’t hurt anything, and I figured it would keep the O-ring in place while I screwed on the cap.


This is much nicer looking than the first cap, is secured with three screws and hopefully will solve the water intrusion problem.  I had to temporarily remove the vault lid (containing the fixed ballast) to get straight access to the cap.


 Thanks to John Welsford for suggesting this easy fix.  Doesn’t it just look much nicer?  Can’t wait to see if it works.

Securing Center Board Bolt

It just wasn’t right…I could feel it in my bones.  Remember, if anything can go wrong, it will go wrong if I’m within 20 feet of the problem.  My life experience has taught me this.  Like the time I rode Todd Treasures motorcycle in 4th grade without asking…long story but it turned out bad; or the time I flipped my bicycle trailer while descending at 34 mph down a wet hill on the Oregon Coast.  The experiences go on and on.

I knew the center board bolt would come winging out on me when I least expected it, if I didn’t come up with a solution to this problem.

Thanks to many for their input on the Scamp forum.  I settled on this simple solution.

DSC00428 The bolt plate has previously been epoxied to the center board case.  This left only the bolt that needed to be sealed.  I slathered it with 100% silicon caulk.

DSC00425Then I took a small piece of wood, measuring 1 3/4″ x 3″, and drilled out the center with a 1 1/8″ forsner bit.  I test fit the depth on the bit cut for a snug fit against the bolt head.

DSC00426 Then I drilled out the outside of the block with a counter sink bit.  I plan to use 1 1/4″ ss screws.  They protrude through the block 5/8″.  I calculated the thickness of the case at this point to be 3/4″.   Notice I offset the counter sink holes, holding them up toward the top of the block a bit.  This allows better access in hatch #5 to set the screws.

DSC00418This is the block positioned over the bolt.  I will epoxy and varnish this block and then screw it in position.  It fits nicely along side the Vault.  Now I can sleep again at night.

One of these days, any day now, I won’t have anything left to build.

CB Uphaul Rigging

I wanted to install the center board uphaul blocks and cleat before things got difficult to reach.  I also wanted to clearly see where to screw the components with respect to the CB blocking.   DSC00002Using a 1/2″ forsner bit, I drilled a hole on a slight angle so that lake water will drain back into the CB case.  I was careful to avoid all existing screws. DSC00003Dave (building #243) recommended this little tool to flare the end of the copper tubing.  DSC00004DSC00006It worked like a champ.DSC00007Test fitting for length.  This forward end will be flared with a plumb bob. DSC00008You can almost see the forward flare on the tubing.  DSC00010The screws for the fairlead need to straddle the copper tubing and miss the ends of the turn block screws.

DSC00003All mocked up with block, fiddle block and cleat.  I angled the cleat slightly to match the angle of the incoming line.

Next up, sanding and painting the seat longitudinals and sole rain gutter.  

Completing CB Case

Building the CB case seemed to take a long time.  I went very slowly to insure I didn’t make a mistake.  It was weighing heavily on my mind and I’m glad I got through it.  As you know, I was using a different construction technic, so I wanted to make sure I got everything right.  It went together beautifully.DSC00002Here I laid out my screw patterns and dry screwed everything together.  I used an impact driver which offered a lot of control when screwing into the plywood.DSC00003These screw are a joy to use, they drill their own holes and pull hard enough to go right through the plywood if your not careful.  I’ve never used anything like them.DSC00002Here are the specs for the screws.  They are not stainless steel, but they will all get epoxy plugged and shouldn’t see much moisture (since they are buried inside the wood).  They are designed for outdoor decking.DSC00004The process is to dry screw everything together in it’s proper layout, disassemble, epoxy and reassemble.  This allows the screws to go back into their original holes insuring proper alignment.  This system, though slow, offers a lot of accuracy and precision.  DSC00007Summary: 

  1. Though it had me worried, the build was straight forward and relatively easy on the bench.
  2. If you take your time and build the case accurately on the bench, it should fit beautifully between the bulkheads.
  3. Glue up was simplified by working on the bench.
  4. The case doubler plate was easy to epoxy by working on the bench.
  5. Everything is easier on the bench.

Prepping CB Case

There are a lot of steps here folks.  My steps will be different from others due to the way I have decided to construct the case.  The overall process is driven by my desire to build the case outside the boat on my work bench as Dave did in building Scamp 243.  This may not be the best way, but it makes sense to me.

DSC00003First I needed to fiberglass the inside surface of the CB case.  I like to keep my first coat of epoxy thin as not to add undue weight.  I also believe this creates a better bond between the wood and glass (it seems to suck the glass into the fibers of the wood).  DSC00002I used tape to separate the glassed portion of the case from the remainder of the seat longitude piece.  You glass right over the top edge of the tape, and then use a razor blade to cut a clean line, using the edge of the tape as a guide.  This provides a clean edge between the glass and wood and works beautifully.  DSC00012 I then epoxied the support plates to the case sides.  I am using the stones as weight to hold the two pieces together.  DSC00001Drilling out the epoxy plug to recieve the brass bushings. I had to be extra careful to get the two panels properly positioned to each other prior to drilling.  I used two extension supports to keep everything horizontal.  On the drill press, I drilled one hole through all the layers. DSC00002Test fitting the bushings prior to installation.  I marked and then cut the bushings to proper length.  You can see the epoxy plug that surrounds the bushing to prevent water intrusion.  DSC00004To ensure the bushings hold securely in the epoxy, I scored the outside with a metal file and then epoxied the bushings into place using thickened epoxy.  DSC00008Just looking over all the margins to make sure the CB will fit.  DSC00009Mocking up the whole ensemble.  The width looks just right.  I have 3/16″ on each side of the CB.   No, I didn’t forget to add my homemade poly washers.DSC00006The pivot bolt will be used as an alignment tool during glue-up to keep the panels in proper orientation to each other.  DSC00011I need to add a few more coats of epoxy to the inside surfaces prior to assembly.  I used tape to separate the graphite epoxy areas from the case end pieces.  DSC00013The graphite sure makes things look official.  


There a lot of little steps here that seem to take forever, especially when working with epoxy.  My goal is to take my time and not make any mistakes.  So far, so good.  I am just enjoying the journey.  Next step is to assemble the case.

Wrapping my Head around the CB Case

There are a lot of ways to build the CB case.  It has been a blessing to read and see how others have accomplished this step.  I have the advantage of reading and learning from those who have gone before me.  DSC00005  I decided to build the CB case on the  bench prior to installing it in the boat.  I believe this will make it easier for me to build and keep the panels properly aligned.  I was not confident in my ability to drill a perpendicular hole through four panels after the case was installed in the boat, so I’m going about this a little differently.  DSC00008The line route for the CB uphaul needs to be designed also.  After playing with several slopes, I finally decided on a very subtle slope back into the case as the best line and water control route.  The actual hole will be drilled after installation and run through BH4.DSC00009After thinking a few nights about how to keep the panels properly aligned, I decided to start with all the layers sandwiched together and indexed by the CB bolt running through the existing holes in the stack.  I drew lines to index the panels for future alignment.DSC00011I fixed this position with 4 screws to hold all four layers securely together.DSC00012I then drilled out the existing holes on the drill press with a 3/4″ oversized forsner bit.DSC00013I then coated all the holes with unthickened epoxy and followed that up with thickened epoxy.  The stones keep the panels laying flat on the bench to keep the epoxy from running out the bottom of the holes.  I use duck tape on the back sides of the panels.  DSC00014Once cure, I’ll sandwich the panels together again using screws in the holes drilled earlier.  I’ll then drill out the epoxied holes to accept the brass bushings, leaving an epoxy ring around the bushings to prevent water penetration into the wood.  I’ll then glass/epoxy all panels and begin to build the case, using the CB bolt through the holes to maintain proper alignment.  This system seem to make sense to me, I’ll report how it all works out upon completion.