Coaming Cap and Rub Rail

With epoxy cured, I began shaping the coaming cap.DSC00035I cut it close, then filed until flush. DSC00037A block plane brought the oak down to the top of the plywood. DSC00038I then filed the top to remove plane marks and gouges. DSC00040DSC00042All edges were rounded with a 1/4″ round over bit and then filed for final shape. DSC00044I then screwed on my rub rail.  I choose Sapelle dimensioned to 3/8″ x 1 7/8″.  I decided to only screw this in place for easy repair or replacement.  I used 1 1/4″ SS screws placed 6″ apart.  I held the rub rail 1/8″ proud of the deck for my desired look.  DSC00043I wasn’t sure it was going to bend OK, but it went on just fine.  This is a really fun stage to be at here folks…really fun stage.


Things are starting to come together for Shackleton.  I’ll be away for a while, so expect delays in my blog posts and progress.  I’m very glad I began this project.  For me, it has been a great experience.  Should you build one?  That’s entirely up to you…but for me, it’s been an awesome experience.

Cockpit Coaming Cap

I looked around the shop for any noble scraps of wood to become the honorary coaming cap.  The red oak left over from the skegs kept calling to me from across the dusty shop floor.  After a proper interview to determine worthiness, the oak got the job.

DSC00036This is 2 pieces of 3/8″ x 1 1/8″ red oak.  I epoxied them one at a time for easy bending. I ran the oak long to provide the material for the gusset cap.  This should be enough extra to allow me a few shots at the compound cut needed for the gusset cap.

DSC00035I used small wooden blocks to prevent the clamps from denting the inside of the cockpit coaming.

DSC00037The aft end was cut short to transition into the coaming prior to the curve.  Hard to see, but I rounded the bottom inside edges of the oak for a smooth fit between the 2 boards.

DSC00047I then used the Shinto rasp and sandpaper to shape the aft end.

DSC00048The forward end was cut with a Japanese draw saw.  I left it a touch proud of the gusset.

DSC00040Then I fine tuned the cut with the Shinto rasp to achieve a flush surface with the gusset.

DSC00044I then took the left over glued up material and began cutting/shaping the compound angle needed to fit against the cabin sides.

DSC00051Clamped in place with a small fillet around the junction.  Once cured, I’ll work all the top edges flush and round over all exposed edges.


It’s impossible to get all the top edges exactly flush, so I ran both oak pieces a touch proud of the cockpit coaming on the top side.  Then, once all is cured, I’ll file/sand the top oak edges down to match the plywood edge for a nice flush top surface.

Gusset Redo

Sometimes in an attempt to keep things moving, I move too fast.  

DSC00035This was my attempt at glassing the gusset to the cockpit coaming.  After I took this photograph and looked at it on my computer, I realized it was all wrong.  I instantly noticed 2 things:  1-the top edge is not flush and 2- the corner is too sharp for proper glass adhesion.  I should’ve fixed these two things before attempting to glass.  So, before it cured, I went out and pulled it off.

DSC00038This photo shows my attempt at correcting the problem.  The top line still needs additional work, but the corner is much smoother, allowing for good glass adhesion.  I also rounded the glass corners for a smoother finish.


Not perfect, but it now passes the ham n egger standard.


Cockpit Coamings Installed

Wow, I can’t believe I’m actually working on the last few pieces of this build.  For anyone reading wondering if they can build a Scamp, my advise is:  Yes, if you are persistent and not afraid to work through problems and willing to work everyday for just over a year.  Otherwise, go buy one.

I have truly enjoyed this experience.  But, I’m a ham n egger who loves a project.  If you are a white glove guy, maybe you should start with a kayak and see how you enjoy it.

Enough sappy talk, let’s get to those cockpit coamings.

DSC00035I first marked out where I wanted all the holes drilled.  After double checking all measurements, I drilled out both coamings for a uniform look.  I then used a counter sink on each coaming to insure the screw head was inset.  I also rounded all exposed edges with an 1/8″ round over bit.

DSC00039 DSC00037After proper glue up technique, I screwed the coamings into the gunwales.  I used 1″ ss screws placed about 6″ apart all the way along the coaming.

DSC00036I then laid a fillet into the outside edge of the coaming.  This required 2 fillets for proper shape and size.

DSC00040Now for the triangular pieces.  DSC00046 After shaping the triangular pieces, and angling the edges to better fit against the coaming and cabin side, I clamped them in place and filleted the inside seams.  I will fillet and glass the outside seams once the inside fillet has cured.  DSC00045Inside fillet.


I’ll clean up the edges of the glass after filling with epoxy.