With the oar lock blocks made and epoxied in place, I applied two coats of high gloss spar varnish and secure them with #10 stainless 1,1/4″ screws. You need to drill the holes out to just the right size for a good solid fit. I tested the hole size first on a scrap piece of oak. Once I selected the proper hole size, I drilled the holes and tightened in the screws. I designed the blocks to fit just below the top the the coaming. I wanted the installed oar locks to fit just below the coaming top for a smooth top line.
I’m now ready to build my break-down oars using the fiberglass connector kit offered by Duck Works.
I wanted more support than could be achieved by simply screwing the oarlock directly into the cockpit coaming. I looked around the shop and found some left over oak (from the skegs) that would work nicely as support blocks.
I cut a dado to maximize the glueing surface area. This should provide a very solid base. All angles were running bevels, as nothing is straight at this location on the boat. I took my time and got the blocks to fit the best I could. The vertical face is sloping off at 10 degrees for the proper oarlock angle.
Each side was a little different, so I labeled them Starboard and Port and made each block to fit properly. Sanding the finished boat to accept the un-thickened epoxy.
I held the top just below the finish coaming. This allows me to mount my oarlock and have it sit just below the top of the finish coaming.I then applied thickened epoxy to all mating surfaces. One clamp seemed to hold it properly.
I can’t wait to mount up the oarlocks on these support blocks. I feel good about how these turned out.