Cabin Sides

It’s feeling so good to be at this stage of the build.  It’s almost like the wooden boat Gods are smiling down on you with providential care & guidance.  I’m definitely feeling the love.DSC00001The front of the cabin sides need to be notched out to fit over the deck.DSC00002The cleating needed to be beveled to better fit against the side.  Though not shown here, a block plane made short work of this.

DSC00008Somewhere I saw a picture of a Scamp with a handhold cut out of the cabin sides.  I thought this made good practical sense and looked great.  I epoxied the doubler onto the sides (while working on the bench).  Then I used a 1 1/2″ forsner bit to drill 2 holes about 4 1/2″ apart (measured outside to outside).  I then cut out the center material using a jig saw.DSC00009I cleaned up the edges with my shinto rasp and used a 1/8″ round over bit to finish things off.  DSC00011I think this handhold will be very helpful boarding from a dock or just climbing into the boat from the shore (there are no beaches in Idaho).  This photo also shows the relative size of the port lights.  They measure 6″ in diameter.

DSC00049Finally, I offset the front doubler pieces just to add a little dimension.  Correction:  Actually truth be told, I didn’t hardly have enough overhang on the front of the side panels to allow the doubler to fit.  I would have needed to cut it so thin on the vertical side, that I decided to simply overhang it a bit.  This allowed more room for an inside fillet.




DSC00002The sides were not difficult to fit and this step went off without a hitch.

 Now setting my attention to the cabin top.





Cabin Windows

While I was working on deck preparations, I decided to take time to work on cabin windows (yes, now I’m multi tasking which I said earlier I would not do).  As I get closer to finishing this build, it seems I want to speed up more in anticipation of completion.  So, cabin windows.  In checking the internet, the beautiful brass windows referenced in the plans ranged between $60 – 125/per light.  This seemed excessive to me, so I decided to go with the ham’n egger approach and build my own.  DSC00003I first cut out the window opening in the cabin side panels.  I then drilled holes and rounded the edges (and applied more epoxy).  DSC00006Not knowing how to secure the window lens, I called the smartest guy I know to consult.  My dad said, “Son, you need a 3/8″ offset router bit”,  A who?  “Home Depots got em”.  So off I went to purchase the strange bit.   $29 dollars later, I had the bit in hand. DSC00007 After cutting 4 round hoops from 1/4″ plywood, I used the router to cut the offset.  It worked like a champ.  Now, the lens can be securely held in place by the outer hoops.  The Lexan panels were purchased from Home Depot for $4.95/ea.  I cut the circular shape on my band saw.  DSC00006Two coats of epoxy later, I was ready for finish paint.DSC00051I found this Rust-Oleum Copper Hammered paint and thought I would give it a try.DSC00053DSC00055The results were amazing.  The paint goes on as a solid color and then begins to separate into the blotchy hammered look.  It levels out remarkably well and dries very fast.  It created a very neat looking window frame.

These window frames are lightweight, simple and easy to build.  If you don’t want to spend $200 on beautiful heavy windows, give these a try.  I’m very happy with the results.