Finishing the Sole

DSC00005While I still had good access by reaching over plank #2, I decided to finish the cockpit sole.  I wrapped the paint up the side walls of the sole 2″ all the way around the boat for a bathtub look.  I plan to varnish above the paint line later in the build.DSC00007DSC00010I then taped off the sections of the floor where I wanted to use non-skid.  The product many recommended was Kiwigrip.  One quart was sufficient for all areas.DSC00019The process is actually very simple.  

  1. tape off the areas to be painted, rounding all corners with a razor blade
  2. sand the area to be painted for good adhesion
  3. trowel on Kiwigrip
  4. roll with provided roller
  5. remove tape will paint is still wet

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It was a lot of fun to see things take shape as I pulled the tape off.  This meets the ‘ham’n’egger’ standard.  I very happy with these results.


Installing the Sole

This was not a hard step to complete.  Just take your time and be deliberate.  Plan your screw holes well as to hit all cleating previously installed in your boat.  DSC000021 coat of paint.DSC000012 coats of paint.DSC00001Three coats of paint, then screwed into cleating.  I coated the bottom of the sole and all cleating with unthickened epoxy,  Six hours later, I placed thickened epoxy on all cleating.   I then spread the thickened epoxy flat over all the cleating material with a small flat stick.  I then plopped the floor in place and screwed it down.DSC00003I used a syringe to place thickened epoxy into all screw holes.


This was so easy to do on the bench.  You can pre drill and counter sink all screw holes in the sole.  Then use the sole as a template to pre drill holes into your cleating (by placing the sole into the boat).  I used #8 x 1″ stainless screws for the sole perimeter holes and #8 x 1,1/4″ stainless screws for all the sole doubler holes.

Next steps: 

  1. Sand flush the epoxy filled screw holes
  2. Paint over screw holes
  3. Fillet sole/seat longitudinal edge.
  4. Paint filleted areas and seat longitudinals.

Sole Work for the Soul

The more I get into this build, the more I enjoy it.  There is something therapeutic about working small details out in your mind, and then seeing them come into form on the boat.  In a life where everything is digital, synthesized and virtual, we as humans are missing a very important part of life.  We are having a digital experience instead of having a physical, tangible, creative experience.  If everyone depressed or struggling with metal illness could have success in working with their hands, I believe many would be much better off.   DSC00003I chose to epoxy the sole doubler to the sole on my shop floor.  This will allow me to fit the hatches and fillet the edges on the bench.  I used a myriad of items to weigh down the sole doubler. DSC00004This was my initial thought on hatch layout.  I later rotated the two front hatches 90 degrees and moved them closer to the center line.  This will allow me to stow a crate or small duffel outboard of the front hatches, against the side panels of the boat.  DSC00010 I marked the exact location of each hatch.   DSC00012Once I was sure I had marked things right, I drilled a 3/8″ hole to allow access with my jig saw.  DSC00016This makes you a little nervous.  You definitely want to get these measurements right.  DSC00021I used a router bit to clean up both top and bottom edges.  DSC00015I was curious to inspect the edge of the cut outs.  I wondered if I could detect the seam where the two plys met.  As you see in the photo, there is no visible separation between the pieces.  DSC00008This is what things looked like prior to the sole doubler fillet.DSC00022 After applying the fillet, I spent another hour cleaning up the edges.DSC00025I have decided that applying a fillet is 20% skill and 80% patience.DSC01516 DSC01517I later added an additional coat of unthickened epoxy to the sole doubler edge and fillet.  I’m sure this area will see a lot of water and want it well sealed.

Working on this build is very therapeutic for me.