While the boat is upside down, I finished the underside of the cabin top and the aft side of BH#3.The first step was to sand all areas to be varnished. I also taped off the area where I will be mounting backer plates. I contemplated over mounting the backer plates before varnishing, but felt I needed to mock it up properly (from the top side) to determine the proper size and placement of the backer blocks. So, I’ll finish these areas later. I like the look of a satin finish. I am using System Three Marine Spar Varnish in satin for all my bright work. Beautiful stuff…well worth the cost.
Ready to flip the boat right side up and place on trailer.
After glassing the hull, I’m now ready to glass the planks. I chose to glass the hull in one piece, followed by plank 1 & 2. The plans only call for plank 1 to be glassed, but I had the glass and just felt better about also wrapping plank 2.
With the hull epoxy still green, I laid the plank fiberglass into position (the overlap onto the green hull held things in place). It was just tacky enough to stay put with a light touch.
This was harder than I expected. The plank joints were difficult to get right. Fix the top joint…pull the lower joint…Fix the lower joint…pull the top joint. I finally got a system that worked fairly well, but the joints are not perfect. Some small air bubbles exist. The radius is just too sharp for proper glass adhesion. I plan to sand through these areas to remove any potential future problems with water being trapped behind the glass. The hull chine has 2 layers of glass on all edges. The bow has 4 wraps of glass over the plank 1 joint. I wrapped the glass 1″ over the the plank 2/3 joint.
What I learned:
- The glass takes more epoxy than expected to properly fill the weave (I almost ran out…this would have been disastrous).
- The sides took more time than the hull, due to the lap joint.
- The lap joint didn’t want to lay down properly (there are a few air spots that refused to conform)
- A squeegee is a must to work the lap joint.
I feel a little uncertain as to the proper steps in fairing the hull, Any and all suggestions are welcome.
I really wanted to have the boat turned over for my birthday. Well, tomorrow is my birthday and would you look at Shackleton. Flipped and ready…waiting for proper care and feeding.I didn’t install the back rest or transom cap, feeling it would be easier to turn the boat over before completing these steps. So, after turning Shackleton back over, I will add these pieces.Who engineered these straps? They ought to loosen incrementally (as they do when tightening). Would this be too much to ask? This would give one perfect control. Oh well, I had several buddies come over and help me set the boat down onto sawhorses.
I started cleaning up the edges (couldn’t resist). I think this will go faster than I anticipated. In this photo, you can see my first mistake with this build. Notice the notch outs in the hull? These were suppose to face upward. This was an easy fix. If you build any wooden boat, you will make mistakes. Remember, the secret is to work through the mistakes and not get discouraged. You can fix anything with wood and epoxy. Though you might need a file and block plane. I screwed 2/4’s onto the top of wooden sawhorses so that they would span across the deck (from gunwale to gunwale). I also placed stone blocks with a wooden shim under the mast box. This prevents the boat from rocking forward (which it wants to do). Now it feels secure for confidently working on the hull.
Next step: Fillet the planks, smooth the fillets, epoxy and glass the bottom.
I’ve been wondering how to trim the front of Shackleton to get just the right look. With the gunwales and rub rails coming up both sides, I felt I needed something running across the bow, tying these pieces together for a finished look. I wanted it to look tough…like the Scamp is meant to look. I decided on a thicker slab of wood arching its way from starboard to port. The look needed to be uncluttered, not fancy…think utilitarian and tough. Nothing scrolling it’s way across the arch…just clean and simple.
Solid stock to Arch:
- Planed down to 1″ (originally 1, 1/8″)
- Held up to bow to trace proper angle of the arch
- Cut arch on bandsaw
- Used Shinto rasp and wood file to smooth cut lines
- Bench sanded to smooth cut lines
- Applied 1/8″ round-over bit to all edges
- Epoxied all edges and all mating surfaces
- Screwed into backer plates installed under deck
This piece is meant to take all the abuse, so I decided to leave it 1/8″ proud of the deck. I’ll match this offset when installing the rub rails. The ends will be cut after I install the rub rails (which will but into the back side of the arch).
Sapelle fit the bill for three reasons:
- It looks ship-like to me.
- It is locally available.
- It comes in 16′ long boards (which means I can use the off-cut from the rub rails to fabricate this arch).
Shackleton is starting to take on a look of it’s own. Isn’t this why we build boats? So we can add our personal touch to an already excellent design.
The cabin top has been glassed with 2 coats of epoxy. I noticed the cabin top edges looked a little thin (weave not quite filled), so I went over these areas with a 3 coat of epoxy.
I wrapped the glass up the side walls of the mast box, which already had one wrap of fiberglass all the way around them. (Others have suggested doubling up this area of the mast box with additional okoume plywood. After thinking this over, I decided against this because it would prevent me from screwing hardware into the cabin supports just under the top. So I decided to wrap this area again for additional support. Not sure it needed it…but it made me feel better). I used a round over bit on the top and bottom of the fore and aft cabin top edges. This finishes off the cabin top edge very nicely. I have used a 1/8″ rounder over bit a lot on this build.
The bow of the boat will be finished a little differently. I cut it flush with a flush cut router bit and Japanese draw saw. I am going to fit a solid piece of Sapelle here like I use for the rub rail. I’ll tie this piece into the rub rails for a finished look.
Details to follow.