Coaming Cap and Rub Rail

With epoxy cured, I began shaping the coaming cap.DSC00035I cut it close, then filed until flush. DSC00037A block plane brought the oak down to the top of the plywood. DSC00038I then filed the top to remove plane marks and gouges. DSC00040DSC00042All edges were rounded with a 1/4″ round over bit and then filed for final shape. DSC00044I then screwed on my rub rail.  I choose Sapelle dimensioned to 3/8″ x 1 7/8″.  I decided to only screw this in place for easy repair or replacement.  I used 1 1/4″ SS screws placed 6″ apart.  I held the rub rail 1/8″ proud of the deck for my desired look.  DSC00043I wasn’t sure it was going to bend OK, but it went on just fine.  This is a really fun stage to be at here folks…really fun stage.


Things are starting to come together for Shackleton.  I’ll be away for a while, so expect delays in my blog posts and progress.  I’m very glad I began this project.  For me, it has been a great experience.  Should you build one?  That’s entirely up to you…but for me, it’s been an awesome experience.

Cockpit Coaming Cap

I looked around the shop for any noble scraps of wood to become the honorary coaming cap.  The red oak left over from the skegs kept calling to me from across the dusty shop floor.  After a proper interview to determine worthiness, the oak got the job.

DSC00036This is 2 pieces of 3/8″ x 1 1/8″ red oak.  I epoxied them one at a time for easy bending. I ran the oak long to provide the material for the gusset cap.  This should be enough extra to allow me a few shots at the compound cut needed for the gusset cap.

DSC00035I used small wooden blocks to prevent the clamps from denting the inside of the cockpit coaming.

DSC00037The aft end was cut short to transition into the coaming prior to the curve.  Hard to see, but I rounded the bottom inside edges of the oak for a smooth fit between the 2 boards.

DSC00047I then used the Shinto rasp and sandpaper to shape the aft end.

DSC00048The forward end was cut with a Japanese draw saw.  I left it a touch proud of the gusset.

DSC00040Then I fine tuned the cut with the Shinto rasp to achieve a flush surface with the gusset.

DSC00044I then took the left over glued up material and began cutting/shaping the compound angle needed to fit against the cabin sides.

DSC00051Clamped in place with a small fillet around the junction.  Once cured, I’ll work all the top edges flush and round over all exposed edges.


It’s impossible to get all the top edges exactly flush, so I ran both oak pieces a touch proud of the cockpit coaming on the top side.  Then, once all is cured, I’ll file/sand the top oak edges down to match the plywood edge for a nice flush top surface.