Voyaging Storage Strategies

Since we’re on this subject, I couldn’t help but bust out another scenario and discussion.

First the criteria:  Supplies for 2 sailors on a 5 day voyage.

I’m thinking my storage criteria for a second Scamp build would be to accommodate a weeks worth of provisions.  Anything longer than that would be a one off with possible resupply along the way.  With that in mind, how much storage would this require?  How much water would this require?  I believe the Texas 200, or any outdoor pursuit recommends 1/2 gallon/person/day.  Let’s use these numbers as we plan our one week voyage.  The math comes out to 5-7 gallons of fresh water…which really isn’t that big a deal.  In fact, when Preston and I sailed off Port Townsend we did just this.  We strapped a 5 gallon jug up under the veranda.  We never came close to using all the water, but it felt good knowing we had plenty.

Clothing for a 5 day voyage wouldn’t take much room.  Food a little more, but not bad.

What I’m getting at is this:

Might one have ample storage capacity by:

  1. using the front bow area for clothing, sleeping bags, pads and tent
  2. using the lazarette for anchors, line, beach rollers, block and tackle and wet clothing
  3. using 2 dry bags under the veranda (one lashed to each side) for clothing and food
  4. using  a 5 gallon jug of water strapped to the center line under the veranda
  5. using two 6″ round hatches installed in the front face of the seats (under the veranda) for first aid kit, flares, emergency items, radio, camera gear and cook kit

If this is sufficient, one would not need to cut any holes (other than small ventilation ports) into the seats or the sole of the boat.  Am I crazy or on to something?  I’d have to think this through over a period of time, cuz often I get carried away to excess with any good new idea.

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4 thoughts on “Voyaging Storage Strategies

  1. Hi Brent. The two sailors for five days is a great way to visualize the SCAMP storage picture.
    Here are some of my thoughts..

    Water
    Five imperial gallows of water weighs in a 50 lbs and can be an awkward thing to move around. Maybe better off using multiple smaller containers that could be stowed more easily. Added benefit if you need to replenish ashore, easier to carry, fill, etc. and a hole in container does not mean losing everything. I see Small Craft Advisor sells 1 gallon collapsible ‘Howard approved and proven’ containers that look good and do take up much space when empty/not needed..
    For a long dry cruise, like the Texas 200 it might be practical to give over some of the foot well to store water containers – keeping the weight low and adding water ballast (five gallon plastic jerry can type container on its side and strapped down?)

    Lazarette – I like this idea but cannot visualize it on SCAMP. Would this be top opening, to the floor seat top or transom top height?

    Round hatches – countersinking sound like a good idea for floor mounted. I hand both threaded and larger snap in types on my Chebacco ‘wall mounted’ but I wonder if the threaded type may have issues with sand in threads if mounted on floor. I will investigate what is available in the marketplace these days…

    Cheers! Randy

  2. Randy,

    Great suggestion with the smaller water containers. I also like the idea of getting them lower in the boat and easier to handle. I think Henderson (screw down) hatches on the floor under the veranda, in front of the water ballast tank would be a great place for this water. MSR Dromedary bags would be perfect. One could secure these bags below the sole with tie down points between bulkhead 3-4 and tease them out of 7″ hatches…I think.

    The lazarette would be flush with the seat tops (so you can still use the space for 2 up sleeping if needed) running full width (all the way against the seat longitudinals), about 24″ deep and accessible from the top along its center line. This way, the top is never under the water line, even if the boat is on its side. The hatch could be quite large for great access to anchors, line, wet suits, etc. Make sense? Also, Howard uses the forward vertical face of the lazarette as a back rest…he sits on the sole of the boat, facing forward, with his feet in the footwell, while leaning back against the forward vertical (slightly sloping aft) face of the lazarette. Isn’t that cool? This keeps your weight low and centered along the center line of the boat, while providing a nice place to rest your lower back. If that’s not cool enough…you can then slide in a filler board between the seats to use as a bench for cooking, working, reading, drinking or plotting the next days journey while you stay in this previously describe comfortable location. Hopefully, this makes sense. If not, let me know and we’ll do it again.

    Location of hatches: I’m thinking 2 floor mounted hatches under the veranda. The Henderson screw down type. Then, I would have someone make me a closed cell pad for the floor of the veranda, which would have cut outs for the hatches. This is a great way to make the hatch tops disappear. The hatches take up 1,1/8″ in height and are 7″ in diameter. Hence, a 1,1/2″ foam pad would fit nicely around the hatch covers. Yes, you need to keep as much sand out of your boat as possible and clean regularly, even when voyaging to keep them running smoothly. I’m told a small about of vaseline helps keep them turning smoothly as well. So, a small dust pan and broom would be a must.

    I’m also thinking 2 Henderson hatches mounted in the vertical front face of each seat (also under the veranda) for cooking gear and fast meals. This might be an ideal place to store these items cuz you could crawl under the veranda, drop a vertical curtain down behind you to stop the wind and rain, grab your cooking gear from the seat hatches and cook up a hot brew, while sitting on your foam cushion (which makes the protruding floor hatches easy to sit on or crawl over).

    I know I’m a total nerd when it comes to these things, but I love thinking through the scenarios. When you go to all the work of building a boat, you want it the way YOU want it. To me, thats the fun of it.

    Best,
    Brent

    Keep those good ideas coming!!!

    • I know where you are coming from Brent – I made a number of modifications to the original Chebacco design and I would wake up in the dead of night turning these things over in my mind. It is all part of fun no doubt.

      I like the idea of a couple of round hatches under the veranda rather than a single large one. Duckworks has a selection of (nearly) flush ones at reasonable price. Some avoid the dreaded threaded lids which would be my preference.
      http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/hatches/sd336200/index.htm

      What about filling water ballast water with fresh water that can then be used for non-potable uses (washing, etc.) and replace with salty or icky water mid cruise?

      Somewhere on the inter web I saw and idea or sewing up nylon covers for empty wine box plastic bladders (that already have valves) for water storage. What about sewing these in a cylindrical shape to fill neatly through round hatch and store like a row of sausage below?

      Thanks for lazarette description. Thinking a large rectangular hatch in this position. Lazarette and foot well are not going to be optional on my build for sure. Having spend 24 hrs at a time on my Chebacco I concur it is very important to have comfortable seating. Angled lazarette front / back rest is brilliant but would would not be hit by the tiller when sitting in this position? I gather the tiller on a SCAMP cannot be pivoted up because it passes through transom so could it be easily removed to create more free space for when a anchor or dock?

      The veranda – Could a 6′ tall person sit comfortably within the veranda? I like your earlier referenced idea of making the opening a little smaller with vertical sides that would allow for a drop down curtain (roll up with zippered sides?) Good out of sight place stash PFDs, cushions, etc. when leave boat unattended at dock or for trailering. Wonder if possible to request this change to bulkhead opening cut when ordering CNC kit?

      You started it…
      Randy

      • Randy,

        Very clever idea of filling the water ballast tank with non-potable water. I like it! Regarding the hatches, do you think the non threaded type will seal as well as a screw in type? I’m not against maintaining the screw in, if they seal better. I’m looking for the best seal possible, which ever system that is. What do you think?

        The tiller comes off easily by removing one bail pin for opening up the area. You could either swing the tiller to one side or pull the pin. I would be using a tiller tamer like Joal built on his navigator
        http://navigatorjoel.blogspot.com/2014/03/how-to-build-adjustable-tiller-lock-for.html

        The 6′ seating question under the veranda is a good one: I think the answer is barely. I have a photo of my son sitting under the veranda. He’s 6’2″ and had to slump, but it worked…sort of. I’m also worried that a 1,1/2″ foam cushion will further reduce head room, but I would rather slump and fit that forego the cushion.

        Excellent question regarding the cutting of bulkhead #4. It way require another sheet of 3/8″ okoume, but totally worth it to me. I’ve got a lot planned for the veranda…hope I’m not over engineering it.

        Howard started it…not me!

        Best,
        Brent

        Love to hear your ideas!

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